I began the Cape Wrath Trail with a friend in May 2007.The first 3 days were driving rain,with all rivers in spate.Being 5`4" and carrying a 42 lb pack made crossings unstable a fell in most of them.For me it was all part of a great adventure.It is essential that all clothing and sleeping bags are contained in a waterproof sack.There were a party of Belgium's at Strathan who were in trouble, with everything they had was soaked.We suggested they make their way to the Glepean Bothy to dry out.Over a very rickety bridge crossing the River Carnach (one at a time only)the Guide book could not verify it`s existence, camping at some ruins at Carnoch.A brilliant riverside walk which was anything but flat,ascending by pulling on Heather Roots a tufts of grass.The 4 mile walk from Barrisdale to Kinloch Hourn was difficult an took over 3 hours.Each day the scenery took on a different dimension,The Falls of Glomach,the Bunkhouse at Camas Luinie,with beer provided by Wally the owner.Twisted my kneed badly on the slippery descent from the Falls of Glomach,but only a broken limb would stop me.North to the Cape Guide book gave a good alternative route over the Coulin Pass was easy on my knee,but the Torridon Mountains with a dusting on snow was wonderful and got better all the way to Loch an Nid,a wonderful camp almost surrounded by Mountains.2 night stop in Ullapool,to rest and stock up with 2 days food.The day to Knockdamph Bothy was dire.Arrived soaked with water spurting out of my boots to a very cold Bothy with no prospect of fuel for a fire.There was a large fence post that someone had tried to burn,an axe bounced off it. Thankfully my friend had a hacksaw blade on his Swiss Army Knife, resulting a fire that burned for 3 hours,not a life saver,but maybe not far off.The 18 to Loch Ailsh were foot weary,but a Pub stop at Orkyl Bridge Hotel was a delight.The Gillie at Benmore Lodge advised to move on as there guests staying,perhaps we would lower the tone of the area?From here to Kylesku the area was almost Lunar,with a series of high level Lakes,the like of which i have never seen,someone could die here and never be found.Midged out camping near Achfary Forest,more lakes ,with good paths for Anglers ending with 4 km of deep Bog & Mire to reach Richonich.A lovely road walk to Kinlochbervie giving a scene a Slovenian look.The path to Sandwood Bay was a delight almost suitable for a Buggy from the CP at Blairmore.Bathed in sun and not a soul to be seen,we sat in awe of this delightful Bay.The 5 hours to reach the Lighthouse was expected as walking on sand dunes always descending to sea level.Arrived at 5 pm,to a scene of dereliction with MOD buildings in need of demolishing.We were unable to tell anyone of our Journeys end as there was no signal.Day not over yet as we made our way to Kervaig Bay Bothy.To us a magnificent end as the sun went down as we were taking stock of our achievement.Caught to Shuttle Bus to takes to Durness via Loch of Durness.
For anyone planning this wonderful trail,be prepared for anything and not alone.The first 5 days to Glen Shiel were without a signal and completely on our own.Be careful where you walk,my friend disappeared to his waist in a water hole in the Carnach Valley,i was prodding with my poles over a water covered plain.Fuel in Bothies is hit & miss,take newspaper. Check with Hotels Richonich or Kinlochbervie as they will have information relating to MOD activity in the area. Please don`t procrastinate just go and walk the walk.