Around The Coast of The Isle of Wight 22/05/08 ? 25/05/08
This was my very first long distance walk, I have this desire to walk the coast of the UK and thought that this would be a start to see if I would really like to do this extremely ambitious project. I am not a hardcore LDW. I enjoy the walking but did not want to camp and did not want to carry food.
Day 1 - Yarmouth to Cowes
I left the ferry with trepidation and excitement my journey was about to begin. My rucksack felt heavy and alien to me and I was not sure how my feet were going to cope, but off I went. I must say that this leg of the journey was not as I expected it to be. It sends you along many roads which were not near the coast and did not feel as if I was gaining any distance. My map helped little in spurring me on as all I could see were more roads up ahead and I did not have enough distance knowlede to be able to judge how long it would take me. I questioned my self several times as to my own sanity, why did I really want to do this? Who would really care if I decided to give up now? The tips of my big toes began to hurt every time I went down a hill and as I had never read a map whilst walking before I had no idea how to work out distances, everywhere looked so far away. The bits of real coastal path I trekked along were interesting. A haze lay over the main land so it was very difficult to work out what was what in the mist. There were rabbits by the sea, something else I had not imagined to see. I am not very clued up on wild life but the birds were magnificent. I found a garage around lunch time, which had a loo. I decided it was time to put on my shorts and look like a real hiker!! I bought a sandwich and a smoothy and set off again, still more road walking. About an hour later I decided to stop and eat my well earned sandwich. Propped up against a field gate I ate and watched the traffic rush past. The smoothy fizzed as I opened it and one taste told me it had started to ferment so I gave up on that and had some more water, at least that would make my load a bit lighter. I checked the map and yes, I managed to locate myself, showing that I was indeed about half way to Cowes so I continued along the ?coastal path? road and through a caravan site, where I managed to discard the fermenting smoothy, down a trail and onto the sea front again, yippee. I again checked the map and could see that I had a while of walking along the ?coastal path? with a sea view. I pushed on enjoying the view and trying hard to ignore my sore feet and aching legs by taking in the beautiful vista and working out which part of the main land I was seeing across the water. Again I was forced in land to walk along roads but knowing that Cowes was nearing I got renewed energy in my limbs. As I entered Cowes there was an ice cream vendor and as a treat I sat on the sea front watching the boats all out sailing and giving myself a pat on the back for achieving the first leg. Well almost ? I still had about 1.5 miles to walk to the guest house, but what?s that in comparison to the distance I had already covered!! I walked on to the Halcyone Villa guest house, which of course was at the top of a hill!! Sandra greeted me and told me that there were other walkers arriving later, I could hardly speak, my feet hurt, my hips hurt and I really questioned the validity of my sanity. I made a cup of tea and ran a bath, thinking that soaking away the aches and pains would work ? of course it didn?t and pain killers wouldn?t have got rid of it either I suspect! I got out of the bath and lay on the bed thinking that I would rest a while and then go out to eat ? I didn?t feel hungry enough to move ? all night!! I tried to find a comfortable spot under the covers which did not touch my now very sore toes ? I ended up sleeping without covers on my feet ? but boy did I sleep and the next morning I awoke refreshed and raring to go. I went to breakfast at 7:30. I had muesli followed by, 2 eggs, 2 rashers of bacon, 2 sausages, baked beans 2 grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, followed by toast and marmalade all washed down with a cup of tea. Those who know me will understand this and those who don?t I will try to explain. In the privacy of my own home, whenever I have 2 fried eggs I save the yolk of one until the end, when in one scoop of the fork and without breaking it I pop it into my mouth. Now this is something that I do not like to do in public, however, at the start of my eating my breakfast there was no one else in the dining room, so I looked forward to finishing it with a whole yolk, I had about 3-4 mouthfuls left to go, when more diners arrived. I looked at the yolk and looked at my circumstances and realised that I could not finish my breakfast in my usual way, I was gutted, and that is all I will say on the matter, but I was gutted! Anyway, to get over my disappointment I started to chat to the other diners, who as it transpired were the other walkers mine host had mentioned. They were walking in the opposite direction to me and having all of their luggage transported to the next destination, what luxury!! We compared notes of the previous day, I said that I had found it too much road walking and they had declared that I would not find it any better to Ryde, oh joy, but who knows what lay beyond Ryde?
Day 2 - Cowes to Sandown
My toes started hurting almost immediately and the road walking was again excessive, in fact I would say there was more than the day before, weaving through housing estates and along fast and furious roads with no paths, I trudged on, where oh where was the coast? ? had I taken a wrong turn somewhere? Alas the ?coastal path? to Ryde chooses not to go near the sea!! Many buses passed by and I must admit they did at times look mighty tempting. The little devil sat on my shoulder saying ?who would ever know that you jumped on a bus to Ryde ? the sites aren?t that great after all!!? I chose to ignore this devil, but he did pop back several times! I decided at after 2 ½ hours of not seeing the sea I would find a path that lead to the coast. Hurray there it was and I felt a little better, I managed to walk on the beach from Binstead Hard to Ryde pier in time for an early lunch break. I still did not feel hungry after the amount I?d eaten for breakfast but wanted to rest my sore feet. I sat on a bench and watched the train and cars back and forth along the pier and the ships passing in the distance. I looked at the map wondering again why I was actually doing this. I had managed less than half my goal for the day at this point, although, the next stint looked more fun, at least it kept me on the coast for a while. Ryde is, in my opinion, like any other sea-side town, amusement arcades and fish and chip shops not forgetting the abundant string of souvenir shops. I managed to avoid temptation and continued on my walk, being stopped about 5 minutes into my journey by a couple of people recruiting foster carers. Now part of me was quite impressed that I was taken for a native islander, however, I did think that my rucksack would have given them a clue that I might not actually be from ?around these parts?!!! After a quick chat about what they were doing and what I was doing, they wished me well and I instructed my feet to start walking again. I started setting my self small goals to motivate me into continuing, I?m not sure if it worked or not, but it took the focus off my toes for a while. The path again took me away from the sea and I headed for Bembridge Harbour. This looked so far away from Sandown and I doubted my ability to reach Sandown, today or any other day for that matter!! I ignored the path that would have sent me through another housing estate and stuck to the coast, at least it kept me more focussed. The coastal path then sent me through a wooded area but very pleasant emerging at the base of Culver Down on top of which stands a point, The Lord Yarborough Monument, it looked a long way up and dare I mention again my toes were really hurting!! I climbed to the top in relative ease and again I gave myself a pat on the back!! It was at this point that I realised that walking up hill did not hurt as much as walking down. The view from there was amazing and again I could see the sea. As a walked across the top of the Downs suddenly Sandown pier became visible. I had a feeling of euphoria and nearly burst into ?the hills are alive? and start running down the grassy downs. I managed to refrain, mainly because as you all know my toes were hurting. However my legs suddenly felt less heavy and I did get down into Sandown with a spring in my step, I sat at the first groin looking at the view and feeling a little insane that I was putting myself through such pain and for what? At that time I did not have a clue. I found my map to the B&B and headed along the promenade. Oh what a surprise the guest house was up the top of a hill!! How on earth did I manage to find these places? I made a mental note that if I was to do this again, always ask the location of the establishment and the height above sea level.
I was the only guest staying there that night, however, I seemed to have the only room where only one of the 3 lights worked and the remote control had been stolen and therefore if I had wanted to watch TV I would have had to get up to change channel, I chose not to bother. Again my legs seized up and you guessed it, my toes hurt. As I hadn?t eaten since breakfast I knew that I would have to go out. I decided to shower and have a bit of a rest first. Who puts a shower tray 18 inches above ground? This guest house that?s who, and as I attempted to lift my aching leg into the shower, you?ve guessed it, I smacked my toes on the side. I think I said ouch or something along those lines, I wanted to cry and go home!! I asked the proprietor where was a good place to eat, his question was ?what type of food do you like?? I replied what ever was the nearest. I left and wandered down the hill feeling every single step. Fortunately there was an Indian restaurant in very close proximity. I dined and then staggered back, wishing that the staggering was more to do with the ½ pint of beer I treated myself to than the fact that my, yes you?ve guessed it, toes hurt! (I will try very hard not to mention it again, but I can?t guarantee it).
I went straight to bed and awoke the next morning with a new found vigour and the fact that I had a relatively short walk to look forward to.
Day 3 - Sandown to St Catherine?s Point/Shepherds Chine
I decided not to exploit the fact that I was alone in the guest house with my attempt at eating the fried eggs, mainly because I had a lunch date with some friends who live at St Catherine?s Point. So a relatively small breakfast of weetabix and poached eggs on toast which saw me on my way. I headed down to the sea front, looked back to where I had journeyed from and headed towards Shanklin. I felt different somehow, my rucksack was comfortable, my toes no longer felt as bad and the sun was starting to shine and I only had about 9 miles to cover. There was a tractor raking the beach and Sandown and Shanklin still had not woken up. I was on a mission to get to my goal so there was no time to lose, I think I was beginning to lose the plot, was this just a race around the Island? was I no longer interested in taking in the scenery? My senses had been dulled and although my body felt better I just kept pushing on. Occasionally I would stop to appreciate something, but I was really on a mission that morning. I had left the B&B at 8:30 and arrived for lunch at 12:50, and I really can?t tell you much about the journey other than the sea was more or less visible most of the time whether I was high above it or at its level. I had lunch and sat and chatted for a good while, my friends wondered why I had felt the need to rush and I could not answer, it had just become a desire to finish and not enjoy what I was doing. I do believe that I had gotten so frustrated in the first day and a half with the road walking that I stopped really looking at where I was. I decided that as the forecast for the next couple of days would be rain I would push on and put some more miles behind me. My friend had offered to pick me up that evening from where ever I reached and return me to that exact spot the next day. I decided that I would have an afternoon off from wearing my rucksack and headed off towards Blackgang Chine. My friends accompanied me for a while and we stopped high on cliff top and had a chat and enjoyed the view. I decided there and then that I needed to do this more, if it took longer so be it. Without the rucksack I managed to put about 6 miles more under my belt, whilst appreciating the surrounding area. I reached Shepherds Chine and the path was to take me down the Chine and back up the other side. I decided that I had had enough, didn?t attempt the Chine and walked to the road to be collected. After a very pleasant evening I went to bed and listened to the rain hammering against the windows ? what fun I would have walking in that I thought?
Day 4 - Shepherds Chine to Yarmouth and home
I was dropped off at the exact spot I was collected from. The rain had stopped but the ground was extremely wet. This part of the coast is very heavy clay soil, which stuck to my boots and did not want to leave. Having spent yesterday afternoon without my rucksack, it again felt alien to me and my legs felt heavy (or maybe that was the 3lbs of mud on my boots!!). I am trying really hard to not mention my toes, but I have to say that one of them felt very sore, in a different sort of way. The toe nail had started to lift but I wasn?t aware of this fact until I got home. I aimed to stop at the Isle of Wight Pearl for about 11 and to get to Freshwater bay for lunch. The scenery was wonderful and the sun started to come out. I thought, this is why I am doing this, it is fantastic. I did stop at the Pearl and enjoyed the view and rested my feet for a while, I went on my way and after about 15 minutes met 2 walkers coming in the opposite direction. Low and behold it was the 2 walkers I had met at my first stop-over, it was great to see them and we stopped and exchanged tales. It made me realise how much I had done in the 3 ½ days. I felt exhilarated and continued walking, watching the clay cliffs change to the chalk cliffs and Freshwater bay coming into sight. I decided that I would stop at Freshwater and see how I felt, this after all was not a race. If after lunch I did not want to carry on I could find somewhere to stay.
I looked up and saw the grassy downs rising up to the Needles, the sun was shining and so I checked my map, saw that I could get to the needles and a bit further on and should I want to. I could try and find a B&B to stop over in should I not want to go any further. Although the climb to the needles looks vast, it is slow and steady. The sun was shining and as I rose the Solent became visible for the first time since leaving it on Friday. I had the sea on both sides, it was fantastic. The Needles were much further away than I realised but the grass was soft after the rain and it was like walking on a carpet. I could see the main land but again it was hazy and difficult to pin point very much. I could just make out Bournemouth and Boscombe piers and that was about it, but I was smiling and enjoying the walk. I reached the Headland and was very surprised to meet a road and a bus. I was not expecting that at all, it is there on the map, I think I just chose not to see it. I see the needles most days from Bournemouth but seeing them from such a different angle was amazing. I turned round and saw the beautiful cliffs of coloured sands of Alum bay and was awe struck. The sun was shining and I sat on the grass just above the Needles and thought to myself at this moment in time I would not want to be anywhere else. I looked on the map and thought, I can do this today, I can complete the challenge I set my self and be home tonight. I sat for a while and ate a cereal bar and off I trekked along the bus route to Alum bay and beyond. The climb up through Headon Warren and over Headon Hill was worth every step, the scenery near and far was breathtaking. I was amazed that I had been looking at this view of the mainland, albeit from a slightly different angle, only 4 days ago and had walked so far to see it again. The aches and pains were everywhere but I was spurred on with my goal so close by. I stopped and chatted with a local lady who was interested in where I had been. I told her about my aching feet and she offered to give me a lift, there was that devil again, how tempting that sounded, but how disappointed I would have been if I had accepted. Trying not to offend, I thanked her for her very kind offer and continued on my way, not before finding out there were only about 3 miles to Yarmouth! Another mile and a half and I bumped in to a couple who were walking to Yarmouth as well, this really helped the last bit of my journey as talking really took my mind off my feet!! We said our goodbyes I had a bridge to cross. I could see a ferry so I could see exactly how much further I had to go, I saw a sign for a water taxi to take me across to the ferry, that little devil gets everywhere. With one final push I crossed the bridge and made it to the terminal, where I had arrived onto the Island only four days before. I missed the ferry I had seen but knew they ran every half an hour and I just did not mind, I had done it and no one will ever take that away from me.
As for my walk around the UK coast, will I do it? Who knows? Yesterday I thought, no way, why would I want to do anything as daft as that? Today however, even with the knowledge that I will now lose at least one toenail and possibly three, have more blisters than I care to count, it does seem mighty tempting?.
